Jacqueline P Vincent

The sun burst over the horizon first thing this morning, but the weather forecast decided that it wouldn’t last and heavy showers were the prognosis. We didn’t change our plans to visit the ancient town of Monçao, just the other side of the river Miño, in Portugal. After all, we wouldn’t melt under a deluge of showers and we carried brollies.

After an hour and a half’s drive we drove over the open border bridge into Portugal. Immediately the houses changed from stone farmhouses with slate rooves to cream rendered homes topped with red pantiles, often with an ornamental capping. The vineyards morphed from the low growing red Mencia grapes to the higher growing Albariño variety grapes. All grown on both sides of the river for delicious wines.

We drove into the old town of Monçao, then along a tree lined cobbled road and found a shady space between two Plane trees to park. A short walk took us to the base of the fortress walls and after puffing up the stone steps we were rewarded with glorious Spring views of the river and Spain. Then we spent the next hour walking the walls, admiring the scenery and nosing into the many tunnels that puncture these stone structures until coffee time.

Coffee and the local delicacy, custard tarts were served in the Escondidinho Cafe (hide and seek) they were divine. The cafe fronted an old square where a craft market was in full swing. The stalls were filled with gifts for Mother’s Day, which in many European countries is on the second of May. We then wandered the cobbled streets past plazas sporting fountains, elderly men taking the Spring sun and small groups of ladies putting the world to rights.

The town closed for lunch at one so we returned to our car and drove west following the Miño to Lidls. I know why would anyone go shopping on a day out. To be honest it was the second reason for visiting this gorgeous spa town, as baked beans are half the price than in Spain, if we can get them, and it’s one food we do miss from the UK. Another hour later, a full trolley and an empty bank account later we loaded the car with our purchases which did include baked beans but also several bottles of Portuguese green wine (vinho Verde) which again is delicious, and fresh fruit and veg.

Once more we drove west but only as far as the bridge back into Spain. Only someone had scrubbed out España and written Galiza, the Galician spelling of Galicia. The locals can be a bit protective over their region. Anyway, we drove into the town opposite Monçao, Salve Tierra (save the earth) to their fort but it wasn’t as impressive and we’d arrived during the Spanish lunch hour, make that two, so everything was closed. Disappointed, we decided to follow a sign to a public spa which would have been lovely if it was open. Perhaps another day.

On the way home I spied a garden centre, a bit rough and ready, but with masses of plants in trays. After a quick U-turn and a couple of toots from unhappy drivers we pulled up and explored the shop. €35 poorer, we loaded tomato, pepper, lavender, sage, and strawberry plants onto the back seat and drove home happy and content. Within minutes of pulling out of the garden centre the heavens opened and the promised showers arrived in abundance.